We have talked in the last article about post-processing, so let’s talk this time about what comes before that: about how to create interesting wildlife photos. Most of us know it already, but yes, there is more to it than pressing a button on top of your camera and running the results through Photoshop. When I wrote «create interesting wildlife photos», as opposed to «take a snapshot of some creature», I meant that there is actually a difference between the two.
|While this Circus macrourus presented some nice poses when I first saw it...|
|... it was only after moving the car very slowly closer to the bird, that I got some usable shots|
|It's not always easy to capture your subject at eye level...!|
Photographically speaking, you’d much prefer facing a male wild boar right from the front, because it will make your spectators tremble (but not you obviously, for otherwise there will be motion blur in the picture), and that’s what will keep them looking at your photo. If you only show them the animal’s tail disappearing in the bushes, they will tremble because of laughter, and you’ll be the subject of it. Not strictly photographically speaking, you might also content yourself with a side view, from at least 200m away.
|The Reed Bunting is a beautiful bird, even from behind, but for the photo we want to see its eyes|
The same Crab Spider 20 minutes appart:
|This is how I found the spider first: in full "attack position", but with a rather busy fore- and background|
|Twenty minutes later it had moved a bit furhter: Much more quiet background and better contrast between spider and bg.|
|The typical snapshot...|
|... and a slightly more impressive angle of the same animal|
The famous little branch:
|The famous little branch (or rather two of them), in an otherwise usable photo|
|When I slowly approached this juvenile Flamingo by foot, this was the view I got|
|After crawling on all four to the water's edge, the angle was definitely better with my elbows in the water|
|A cheap macro-lens on a little super-zoom camera (here a Raynox DCR-150 on a Canon SX40) helps getting close, and a bit of over-agressive post-processing can change a housefly into a monster|